HYDRO-B18®

Water-soluble form of 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid

anti-inflammatory – antioxidant – soothing

INCI name

Aqua, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Proline

HYDRO-B18®, a water-soluble form of 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid, is a transparent, odorless, straw-yellow liquid with a neutral pH. It’s soluble in water, glycerol, and propanediol. Used in skin care and personal hygiene, it enhances penetration, reduces redness, soothes itching, and moisturizes.

With tensioactive and self-emulsifying properties, it stabilizes emulsions and offers antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Suitable for sensitive skin, it’s effective in products targeting edema and under-eye bags.

HYDRO-B18® forms larger, stiffer micelles, reducing interaction with the skin barrier, and integrates well with advanced delivery systems like liposomes and nanoemulsions. It meets BDIH and COSMOS criteria.

ERYTHEMA INDEX REDUCTION

HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy proven by in-vivo tests.

The erythema was induced by applying 20 μl/cm2 of a 3.5% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). The graph shows the effect of the application of HYDRO-B18®, Bisalbolol and Ammonium Gycyrrhizate, after 4 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours from patch removal

HYDRO-B18® reduces the erythema index: -17% after 48h, -21% after 72h: more than standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.

Bar chart comparing the reduction in erythema index for Hydro-B18®, Bisabolol, and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate at 4, 24, 48, and 72 hours.

TRANS EPIDERMAL WATER LOSS

HYDRO-B18® reduces the TEWL index as shown in the graph: -16% after 48h (two applications), as standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.

We can conclude that HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy after the exposure to the irritating agent SLS.

Bar chart comparing the TEWL reduction effects of Hydro-B18®, Bisabolol, and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate at 48 and 72 hours after SDS stimulus.

18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizin, and their derivatives are deemed safe for cosmetic use by the CIR Expert Panel. With a long history and confirmed effectiveness by modern pharmacology, these ingredients are versatile in cosmetics.

HYDRO-B18®, with high purity, is safe and eases quality control in formulations. Its development addresses the challenges of solubility and selective release of 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, making it a valuable ingredient in products for sensitive skin, including those with atopic, allergic, or contact dermatitis, affirming its importance in the evolving cosmetic landscape.

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Transparent soluble in demineralized water at pH 7-9. The presence of surfactant allows widening its transparent solubility in a wider pH range.
100% plant-derived and palm-free.
CORTISONE-LIKE INGREDIENT: cortisone-like ingredients such as glycyrrhetinic acid, relieves skin irritations without the typical side effects of corticosteroids. It can be applied daily as part of a preventive skincare regime for sensitive skin and especially in skincare products for infants who have not yet developed a protective hydro-lipid film or acid mantle.
ANTI-ITCHING ACTION Glycyrrhetinic acid reduces the rise of the itching. In particular, it has been shown the role of glycyrrhetinic acid in reducing chronic pruritus by reducing the level of leukotrienes produced.
ANTI-MELANOGENIC ACTION In vitro studies on cell lines has shown that treatment with glycyrrhizin and its aglycone, glycyrrhetinic acid — both before and during sun exposure — prevents oxidative damage.

ORIGIN

Natural 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic delivered in polyglycerol medium.

Appearance	Clear liquid
Colour	Yellow to light amber
Odour	Characteristic
pH	7.5 – 9.5
Dry residue (105°C)	55 ÷ 57 %
Specific Gravity (25°C)	1.13 ÷ 1.15
Solubility	Transparent soluble in demineralized water at pH 7-9. The presence of surfactant allows to widen its transparent solubility in a wider pH range.