solubilizers

POLYSOL® PGA

Natural peg free solubilizer with moisturizing properties

INCI name

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Aqua, Proline

     

POLYSOL® PGA, part of POLYSOL® range, is an innovative natural non-ionic solubilizer obtained from the esterification of polyglycerol and vegetable fatty acids derived from renewable sources and produced with processes that protect the environment.

POLYSOL® PGA works well across a wide range of pH values (4.5 – 8) and temperatures, including in the presence of mildly cationic substances and fragrances incorporating polar solvents. The amino acid proline, which acts as a catalyst in many chemical reactions (Bian L. et al., 2022), demonstrates hydrotropic behavior thus allowing the formation of hydrophobic interactions with the solute, thereby improving solubilization and conferring moisturizing and refreshing properties.

POLYSOL® PGA offers a natural alternative to conventional solubilizing agents, being gentle, pleasant to use, and non-sticky. It is capable of forming clear and stable solutions with a variety of poorly soluble substances, including fragrances, vitamins, active ingredients, emollient esters, and both mineral and vegetable oils.

Furthermore, it exhibits excellent skin tolerability and high biodegradability, aligning with the growing demand for environmentally friendly and sustainable cosmetic ingredients.

APPLICATIONS AND BENEFITS

POLYSOL® PGA and POLYSOL® P3 can be used in a wide range of formulations that need high amount of fragrance or lipophilic ingredients allowing pleasant, effective, and non irritating products.

They can be applied in shampoos, body washes, hair gel, wipes, skin care products as well as household cleaners.

  • Efficiency and Stability: Only small amounts are required to achieve clear, stable solutions that are light and non-greasy. This efficiency ensures that the product’s viscosity remains unaffected.

  • Enhanced Skin Benefits: The formulations are designed to promote skin moisturization and enhance fragrance effectiveness, offering a more persistent scent on the skin compared to alcohol-based mediums.

  • Uncompromised Aesthetics and Performance: These solutions feature low foaming action and have no impact on the odor or color of the formulation, maintaining the intended aesthetic qualities.

  • Compatibility and Safety: The products are characterized by their physiological compatibility, being preservative-free, which contributes to their overall skin-friendliness and suitability for various skin types.

METHOD OF USE

Blend the substance to be solubilized with POLYSOL® solubilizers (PIC. 1), stir well until the mixture becomes clear (PIC. 2). Especially at the beginning, add water slowly while stirring (PIC. 3), till reaching the final volume (PIC. 4). 

Sequence of images demonstrating easy solubilization with Polysol® in a beaker.

TIPS: The optimal amount of solubilizer can depend on many factors like pH, or solvents incorporated in the fragrance. Using distilled water is recommended. POLYSOL® P3 may require up to 24 hours to give clear formulations, no need to increase its concentration.

SOLUBILIZATION RATIOS

Table comparing the ratios of Polysol® range and Polysorbate-20 for various Symrise and essential oil products.
Table comparing the ratios of Polysol® range and Polysorbate-20 for various Eurofragrance products.

EASY TO USE, COLD PROCESSABLE

Work with POLYSOL® solubilizers is easy and no heating is needed. When using, for example, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, after blending and stirring the substance to be solubilized and the solubilizer (PIC. 1 and 2), water addiction creates a gel phase (PIC. 3 and 4), which cannot be dissolved (PIC. 5) without heating or fast stirring.

Series of images showing solubilization problems with hydrogenated castor oil in a beaker.
Pics 1-5: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil needs to be heated or fast stirred

 

FOAM

Foam in a cleanser facilitates impurities removal by offering an expansive surface area to trap dirt, oil, and makeup, enhancing the cleansing process.

POLYSOL® PGA and POLYSOL® P3 exhibit foam formation in water that is similar to benchmarks in terms of volume, thus allowing easy processing. However, the foam is thicker and creamier, thereby better adhering to makeup and impurities and making removal more effective.

Consequently, the functional and sensory aspects of cleansing are improved, a feature that is highly valued in product formulations.

Comparison of foam formation in water using Polysol® PGA, Polysol® P³, Polysorbate-20, and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

 

CLEANSING PROPERTIES

The cleansing efficacy was assessed using foundation, mascara, and lipstick. Three sprays of POLYSOL® P³ aqueous solution were applied onto a pad, which was then used on the forearm, successfully removing all makeup.

 

VISCOSITY

Impact on viscosity was investigated using a base surfactants formulation at pH 5.5 as follow.

Table showing the base formula composition for viscosity determination with solubilizers.

POLYSOL® PGA and POLYSOL® P3 demonstrate low influence on viscosity compared to PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or Polysorbate-20.

Bar chart comparing the viscosity of a chassis formula without solubilizers, PGA Polysol®, P³ Polysol®, PEG-40, and Polysorbate-20.

 

ECO SAFE PROFILE

Table showing the biodegradability, toxicity, and skin irritation properties of Polysol® PGA.
  • 100% plant-derived and RSPO
  • No impact on the odor and color of final formulations.
  • Easy to use, it works well across a wide range of pH values and provides moisturizing properties.
  • It can enhance the fragrance persistence on the skin for a long period due to the absence or limited quantities of alcohol.
  • No negative effects on foaming properties when mixed with surfactants.
 

 

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ORIGIN

Esters of Polyglycerol with caprilic acid from vegetable oils and proline from GMO-free fermentation.

 
   Appearance Clear oily liquid
   Colour
Colorless / light yellow
   Odour
Soft, characteristic
   pH 5.5 – 7.5
   Dry residue (105°C) 66 – 72 %
   HLB
15 (Experimental)
   Specific Gravity (25°C) 1.15 – 1.19 

Ideal for micellar waters, clear cleansers, gels, spray emulsions, wet wipes. It is advisable to not use strong acids or bases in order to guarantee the stability of the final product, as these could cause the solubilizing agent to saponify.

% OF USE:

1.0 – 3.0% for solubilizing fragrances
5.0 – 8.0% for detergents

DETOX MAKEUP REMOVER